The Robusta Revolution: A Coffee Species Reawakens

Coffea Canephora, also known as Robusta, often gets bad press in the world of specialty coffee. This parent of the Arabica species is generally regarded as the black sheep of coffee. Mostly grown on a large scale and destined for commercial use, quality is rarely the primary focus. Most Robusta producers seek high yield, making Robusta 30 to 50% cheaper on average than its cousin Arabica.

Is Robusta inherently lower in quality, or did the species never really get a chance to shine?

INTRODUCTION TO ROBUSTA AND HISTORICAL CONTEXT

Robusta, scientifically known as Coffea Canephora, is a robust and hardy species of coffee that thrives in lower altitudes and warmer climates where its cousin, Arabica, would struggle. Originating from sub-Saharan Africa, in Uganda, Robusta coffee plants were first documented in the late 19th century. Unlike Arabica, which flourishes in cooler highlands, Robusta is well-adapted to hot, humid environments and resistant to pests and diseases. This adaptability made it a favourable choice for cultivation in various lower altitudes regions, including Vietnam, Brazil, and parts of Africa.

Historically, Robusta’s journey into the global coffee market began as a solution to the challenges faced by Arabica growers. The plant’s resilience and higher caffeine content made it an attractive option during times when disease or climate conditions threatened Arabica crops. In the 20th century, as the demand for instant coffee and espresso blends grew, Robusta became a staple due to its strong, bitter flavour and rich crema, enhancing the texture and body of espresso-based drinks.

However, the large-scale cultivation practices often prioritised quantity over quality, leading to a perception of Robusta as inferior to Arabica. Despite its widespread use, particularly in commercial and instant coffee, Robusta has rarely been given the spotlight in the specialty coffee industry. This context sets the stage for re-evaluating Robusta’s potential and exploring its qualities when grown and processed with the same care and attention as its more celebrated counterpart, Arabica.

KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN ARABICA AND ROBUSTA

Arabica (Coffea Arabica) and Robusta (Coffea Canephora) are the two most commercially produced species of coffee, each with distinct characteristics that influence their flavour profiles, growing conditions, and market value.

FLAVOUR PROFILE

Arabica coffee is renowned for its smooth, sweet taste with hints of fruit. Its acidity is higher, which contributes to its vibrant and aromatic profile. In contrast, Robusta coffee is often described as having a stronger, more bitter flavour with earthy, nutty undertones. The higher caffeine content in Robusta, nearly double that of Arabica, contributes to its bitterness and harsher cup profile.

GROWING CONDITIONS

Arabica plants thrive at higher altitudes, typically between 600 and 2,000 meters above sea level, in cooler climates. They require specific conditions to flourish, including a stable temperature range and well-distributed rainfall. Robusta plants, on the other hand, are more resilient and can grow at lower altitudes (sea level to 800 meters) and withstand higher temperatures and humidity. This hardiness makes Robusta easier and cheaper to cultivate in various climates, especially in regions like Vietnam and West Africa.

PLANT CHARACTERISTICS

Arabica plants are more delicate and susceptible to pests and diseases compared to Robusta. They have larger, oval-shaped beans with a curved crease. Robusta plants are hardier, with smaller, rounder beans and a straight crease. This resilience is one of the reasons why Robusta can be grown more easily and in a wider range of environments.

ECONOMIC VALUE

The cost of production and market price for Arabica beans are generally higher than for Robusta. Arabica beans require more care and optimal conditions to grow, resulting in higher labor and maintenance costs. Arabica is also often selectively picked as opposed to Robusta. As a result, Arabica coffee is typically more expensive and is often favoured in the specialty coffee market. Robusta, being easier to grow and harvest in bulk, is less costly and is commonly used in instant coffee and as a filler in espresso blends due to its strong flavour and good crema production.

CAFFEINE AND SUGAR CONTENT

Robusta beans contain significantly more caffeine, around 2.7% compared to Arabica’s 1.5%, which is almost twice as much. This higher caffeine content contributes to Robusta’s bitter taste and makes it more resistant to pests. Conversely, Arabica beans have higher sugar content, which accounts for their sweeter flavour profile. Additionally, Arabica beans have higher lipid (fat) content, which adds to their complexity and smoothness.

CHALLENGES AND LIMITATIONS

Growing high-quality, fine Robusta coffee involves overcoming several significant challenges and limitations. These obstacles span from cultivation practices to market perceptions and economic factors, making it a complex endeavor for producers aiming to achieve specialty-grade standards.

AGRONOMIC CHALLENGES

CLIMATE AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

/ Resilience vs Quality: While Robusta is more resilient to pests, diseases, and climatic variations than Arabica, achieving high-quality Robusta requires optimal growing conditions that are not always easily met. This includes precise control over temperature, humidity, and soil quality, which can be challenging in regions prone to extreme weather conditions.

/ Disease Resistance: Although Robusta is naturally more resistant to diseases like coffee leaf rust, maintaining high-quality beans still demands careful management to prevent outbreaks that can affect yield and bean quality.

PROCESSING TECHNIQUES

/ Consistency and Care: High-quality Robusta requires meticulous processing techniques, including selective hand-picking of ripe cherries, proper fermentation, and controlled drying processes. Traditional methods often lack the precision needed for specialty coffee, leading to inconsistencies and defects in the beans.

/ Investment in Infrastructure: Upgrading processing infrastructure to include advanced drying beds, fermentation tanks, and quality control measures requires significant investment, which can be a barrier for many small-scale farmers.

ECONOMIC AND MARKET CHALLENGES

COST OF PRODUCTION

/ Higher Costs: Producing fine Robusta involves higher labor and operational costs due to the need for selective harvesting, enhanced processing methods, and stringent quality control. These additional costs can be prohibitive for farmers who are accustomed to high-yield, low-cost production models.

/ Financial Risks: Investing in high-quality Robusta production can be risky, particularly in regions where market prices for coffee are volatile and the premium for specialty Robusta is not well established.

MARKET PERCEPTION

/ Negative Bias: The coffee market has historically favored Arabica, perceiving it as superior in quality due to its sweeter and more complex flavor profile. Robusta, often associated with bitterness and lower-quality mass production, faces an uphill battle in changing these entrenched perceptions.

/ Marketing Challenges: Convincing specialty coffee consumers and buyers to accept and appreciate high-quality Robusta requires robust marketing efforts and education about its unique characteristics and potential. This involves overcoming skepticism and demonstrating that fine Robusta can match or even exceed the quality of lower-grade Arabica.

SOCIOECONOMIC CHALLENGES

FARMER TRAINING AND KNOWLEDGE

/ Lack of Expertise: Many Robusta farmers lack access to the knowledge and training required to implement the advanced agricultural and processing techniques needed for producing fine Robusta. Bridging this knowledge gap is essential but requires coordinated efforts and resources from both government and private sectors.

/ Support Systems: Developing strong support systems, including access to agricultural extension services, financial aid, and cooperative networks, is crucial for helping farmers transition to high-quality Robusta production.

SUSTAINABILITY CONCERNS

/ Environmental Impact: High-yield Robusta farming has sometimes led to environmental degradation due to deforestation and unsustainable agricultural practices. Shifting towards sustainable farming methods is essential for the long-term viability of high-quality Robusta production but requires a commitment to environmental stewardship and possibly higher upfront costs.

In conclusion, producing high-quality, fine Robusta coffee is fraught with challenges that span agronomic, economic, market, and socioeconomic domains. Overcoming these obstacles requires a concerted effort to improve cultivation practices, invest in processing infrastructure, educate both farmers and consumers, and shift market perceptions. Despite these challenges, the potential rewards for successfully producing and marketing fine Robusta are significant, offering a valuable addition to the specialty coffee market.

SUCCESS STORIES AND CASE STUDIES

Across the world, multiple producers see potential in robusta crops. Whether it is for its inherent quality or due to climate change, a real revolution is happening, with some producers pushing the boundaries of what many thought possible.

In recent years, many producers have started growing Robusta to tackle economic challenges. Its higher yield and resistance to disease and heat make it appealing for areas threatened by climate change.

COLOMBIA

El Vergel Estate, located in Tolima, Colombia, has a significant part of their farm at lower altitudes (below 1400 masl), making it difficult to grow certain Arabica varieties. At this altitude, the temperature is much higher, making Robusta cultivation promising. Traditionally, Colombia grows only Arabica, but to face climate change, producers are diversifying their coffee species and varieties. Using their extensive knowledge of agronomy and processing, Shady and Elias Bayter have produced exceptional Robusta, scoring above 88 points. “We have a lot of hope in Robusta and for us, it has immense potential, even in cup quality. We just need to treat it well and understand it better,” says Elias.

PANAMA

Kiva Estate is located at 450 masl in the Cocle region of Panama, where the climate is too harsh for the delicate Geisha variety. The team at Kiva produces fine Robusta using fermentation techniques native to Panama, including the ASD process (anaerobic slow dry).

ECUADOR

Denise Bustamante, along with her family, has pioneered coffee cultivation at Hacienda LeGrand in Santa Helena, Ecuador, at 0 masl. As a fourth-generation coffee farmer, her journey began with a deep commitment to quality and innovation, leading her to complete a master’s degree in coffee science and economics. Denise’s expertise, coupled with her role as a sensory and head judge at world competitions like the Cup of Excellence, has propelled Hacienda LeGrand forward.

Through meticulous research and cross-pollination techniques, Denise and her team have developed Ecurobusta, a groundbreaking Robusta variety. This coffee challenges longstanding beliefs about Robusta’s potential, offering resilience and exceptional cup quality.

COLOMBIA

Finca El Paraíso, led by Diego Samuel Bermudez, has pioneered innovative coffee processing approaches, focusing on Robusta in the Amazon forest region of Brazil. The project aims to uncover new flavours in Robusta, traditionally overshadowed by Arabica in the specialty coffee sector. Using extended fermentation techniques and controlled environments, the team has enhanced Robusta’s flavour profile, making it more appealing to consumers who typically prefer Arabica.

The project is part of a broader effort to promote sustainable coffee farming practices in the Amazon. In collaboration with organisations like WWF and reNature, the Café Apuí Agroflorestal project integrates agroforestry practices to protect biodiversity, improve soil quality, and combat deforestation. This approach helps create a sustainable livelihood for local farmers while preserving the rainforest.

These efforts aim to improve the quality and perception of Robusta coffee while contributing to environmental conservation and the socio-economic development of the region.

FUTURE OF FINE ROBUSTA

The future of fine Robusta coffee is incredibly promising, especially with the advent of improved processing techniques that significantly enhance its flavour profile and market value. These advancements are not just minor upgrades; they represent a substantial shift in how Robusta coffee is perceived and enjoyed by consumers worldwide. This shift opens up new markets, previously dominated by other types of coffee, and ensures long-term economic benefits for those involved in its cultivation. As a result, fine Robusta is becoming a viable and lucrative option for coffee growers, offering them new opportunities for growth and sustainability in an increasingly competitive industry.